The Summer Salad Plate #1: Connemara Edition
Celebrating the iconic Irish salad platter, the perfect climate conscious meal for when it is too hot to cook or you just couldn't be bothered.
IN IRELAND WE HAVE VERY STRONG FEELINGS ABOUT what constitutes a salad plate: exactly what foods should be on it and how each of the individual elements should be prepared. I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that I once got into such a heated debate about salad plates on Twitter that I blocked the poor chap over potato salad! We have since made up, so all is well. But before any more squabbles ensue, let me clarify that this dish is often served in the evening (not just lunch), with a glass of wine. Or several if you have kids on their school holliers.
I came across what, to me, epitomises the perfect Irish salad dinner. You can add or subtract different things, but this wonderful creation by Margaret Leahy represents the best of beautiful Irish produce, wholesome Irish cooking and warm Irish hospitality. I’m sure this was served with homemade brown bread followed by a dessert with lots of fresh berries from her garden. And plenty of pots of tae or perhaps a cool carafe of Margaret’s homemade rhubarb gin. Be sure to follow Margaret on Twitter @gardenngather for a true Irish food experience.
Margaret lives on a small holding in Connemara where she grows and preserves most of her own vegetables and fruit, is a skilled forager and bakes up a storm with fresh eggs from Henny and Penny. Margaret has a huge passion for local producers, chefs, brewers and distillers. Which led her to set up her bespoke food group tours of the West of Ireland. Check out her fantastic tours on Irish Artisan Food Tours - you will be enthralled! When I chatted to Margaret about her salad plate, there was one element that she was adamant must be present: salad cream. No one can agree on salad cream vs mayonnaise, more later on this divisive topic. For the rest, I crowd sourced a list of essential elements of an Irish salad plate with very tasty results.
Elements of an Irish Salad Plate: the ultimate climate conscious meal
Sliced ham: this can be good quality shop bought ham or you can boil your own ham which gives you control over the quality, salt and nitrates. Pork has the potential to be a much more sustainable food than what it currently is, and I am pleased that several farmers in Ireland are leading the way. DM me on Twitter or email me if you would like a fabulous recipe @RozanneStevens on Twitter
Potato salad: there are so many potato salads that one could make, but my favourite Irish potato salad is the one made with leftover cooked potatoes, mashed with a little mayo and sometimes scallions (spring onions). One of my secret fillings for a sandwich too. Don’t be afraid of double-carbing occasionally. Go’wan , live a little.
Beetroot: this is normally pickled and can be shop bought or homemade. I often buy jars of pickled beetroot and have no shame in admitting it. It’s not as good as homemade of course, but if you are tired and tight on time, set aside the food snobbery and use what you have. Just don’t forget to remind yourself that you have eaten beetroot when you go tinkle a few hours later.
Coleslaw: coleslaw is the unlikely cornerstone of several Irish meals. Whether it is served as a side with lasagne or on a sandwich with ham or cheese, it features in some unique and unexpected ways. Make it or buy it, I shall not be interfering with this Centra sandwich counter staple! If I do share a recipe in the future I will not blaspheme the classic, promise.
Hard boiled eggs or egg salad: by hard boiled I mean a seven minute egg which is still a bit jammy inside. But sure, boil your eggs to smithereens if ya like, live and let live I say. I’ll be sharing a recipe for an egg salad in a future edition as I do so love an egg salad and it is so easy to make-ahead. Why do we grow to love foods that we hated as a child? The look of horror as you opened your lunchbox at school to be hit with a sulphurous pong more fit for Hades. Morto.
Butter lettuce: butter lettuce was the lettuce of choice in Ireland long before iceberg was a thing, and I still love it to this day. Nowadays of course you get a beautiful variety of locally grown salad greens and I encourage you to try loads of these. Plus, they are pretty easy to grow in your own garden or allotment. Lettuce is a great ‘cut and come again’ crop.
Slices of cheese: Ireland produces some of the most fabulous farmhouse cheeses which will be featured in upcoming issues. But traditionally, regular slices of cheddar (often red cheddar) feature on the salad plate. Bearing in mind that you might be on holiday, camping or caravanning so meals are cobbled together with what you brought with plus what you can easily obtain locally.
Tomatoes: I adore tomatoes in all shapes and forms, but particularly cut into wedges and sprinkled with Aromat. Yes, I know I know, it is full of MSG but it tastes sooooo good on tomatoes and eggs. I favour cherry tomatoes day to day as they are so versatile, but a homegrown or heirloom variety tomato really is a thing of beauty and joy.
Cocktail onions or gherkins: I always have a couple of bottles of pickled onions and pickled cucumbers or gherkins banging around in the fridge. I am of the era where a pickled onion, cube of orange cheese and a chunk of hotdog sausage on a toothpick was considered a canapé. You can take the girl out of the eighties but….
Salad cream: Margaret was adamant when we chatted that it has to be salad cream and not mayo. And I do agree. I know that this will cause a divide so I have added a poll below. Please feel free to come yell at me on Twitter, I’ll have a thread for this newsletter especially for this. I just cannot promise that I won’t block you: it is a touchy subject after all.
Cucumber: this one is at the end of list, as it may fall off. I love cucumber, but I know so many people who loathe it, with some even calling it ‘the Devil’s food’. Bit of an extreme statement, but hey, food preferences are emotional. I like my cucumber icy cold from the fridge and thinly sliced on a mandolin. The wafer-thin texture adds to the sensory enjoyment. Ignore the few blood splatters, accidents happen.
'Catch All" Crustless Summer Quiche
Serves 4
This is what you would get if a quiche and a frittata had a baby and he grew up to save the planet like John Connor, but from climate change, not Skynet. It is one of my favourite zero-waste recipes and you can really get granular with seasonal, local or organic ingredients. It is a great use of leftover bread, odd vegetables and bits and bobs of cheese. Delicious hot or cold and great as a packed lunch. It works well as there are layers of flavour, it’s not just a dumping ground for leftovers.
Ingredients:
Butter for greasing the dish (keep old butter wrappers in the fridge for this purpose)
50g stale breadcrumbs, for the crust
100g stale breadcrumbs for the filling
6 large eggs
250ml milk
125g crème fraiche or sour cream
1 tsp English mustard powder or Dijon mustard
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
2 cups diced, seasonal vegetables: asparagus, courgettes, broccoli, cherry tomatoes OR 2 cups leftover roasted or steamed vegetables
150g grated strong cheddar cheese or Gruyère
Salt and pepper
Method:
Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Grease the base and sides of a 9-inch (22cm) round oven dish with the butter. Sprinkle the 50g of stale breadcrumbs over the butter, tilting the dish so that the whole surface is covered in the breadcrumbs. Place the dish in the fridge to allow the crust to set.
In a large bowl, season the eggs and whisk until homogenous. Add the 100g of breadcrumbs, crème fraiche and mustard and whisk until combined.
If your vegetables are raw, sauté them in the butter in a frying pan until just tender. Allow to cool for a few minutes before mixing in half the cheese and the mint.
Spoon the vegetable mixture into the prepared baking dish and spread out evenly with the spoon.
Pour over the egg mixture and give the dish a little shake to fill in all the gaps.
Sprinkle over the rest of the rest of the cheese.
Bake for 30-35 minutes until set but with a slight, gentle wobble in the middle - as opposed to a 'slosh' of raw egg. Check the quiche as 25 minutes as all ovens are different.
Remove the quiche from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes before serving.
This quiche can be served warm or cold and will keep in the fridge for three to five days.
Refreshing Greek Cucumber Salad
Serves 4
I'm really hoping that this salad will convert the anti-cuke team as I love cucumbers and want to share the joy. I scraped out the middle seedy part for this recipe, but you don't have to. To be honest, it was just for aesthetics for the photo. This recipe is from my next cookbook, all the photos are 'real' but us food stylists do fiddle with our food to make it more appealing. Note: keep the seed pulp for the next recipe which can be used in cocktails, so good.
2 large English cucumbers
1/2 red onion, sliced into half moons
20 Kalamata olives
50g feta cheese, optional
Dressing:
125ml plain Greek yoghurt (I love Glenisk)
1/4 tsp salt and several grinds of the black pepper mill
juice and zest of 1/2 a lemon
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 small bunch of fresh dill, fronds picked OR 1tsp dried dill
Method:
Halve the cucumber lengthways and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Keep the seed pulp for the cucumber syrup recipe.
Thinly slice the cucumber with a mandolin or sharp knife. Place the slices in a colander in the sink to allow some water to run out. You don't need to add salt.
Dressing: whisk together the yoghurt and salt first, the salt will thicken it slightly. Season with black pepper and add the lemon juice and zest, olive oil, garlic and dill. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To serve: mix the cucumber and the sliced onion with the dressing. Scatter over the olives and crumble over the feta. Garnish with the fresh dill. This salad will keep fresh in the fridge for up to 5 days. Just pour off the water which will naturally collect.
Cucumber Simple Syrup
Makes 1 cup
I am a Hendrick's gin girl through and through. And I honestly think it is the slice of cucumber that it is traditionally served with that has me hooked. It infuses your drink with the most refreshing, more-ish flavour. This zero-waste recipe was born out my love for poncy-looking cucumber salads where I scrape out the wet, seedy middle. This syrup is fabulous in cocktails or simply with fizzy water.
1 cup white sugar
1 cup water
cucumber pulp, use whatever you have left over from salad prep
fresh mint leaves, optional
Method:
Combine the sugar and water in a small pot and heat over a medium heat, stirring gently until the sugar dissolves.
Once the sugar has dissolved, turn up the heat and boil for 3 minutes.
Take the pot off the hob, add the cucumber pulp and mint leaves if using. Allow to infuse overnight.
Strain the syrup through a fine mesh sieve and store the liquid in a sterilised glass bottle for up to 3 weeks.
Susty Plastic-Free Tip:
Always order a cone instead of a cup with a spoon. No plastic and delicious! And yes, I know in Ireland you’ll probably have a ‘99 with the stale Flake and maybe the fluorescent ‘strawberry’ sauce, but I’m posting for the ‘gram here.
Stay safe, stay sane and wear your sunscreen!
xoxoxox
Rozzie Wozzie Do-Dah
PS: This newsletter has a deliberately playful tone to counteract the climate anxiety that besets my day to day. I’ve been almost paralysed with overwhelm while working in sustainability, which made me realise that fear is not a sustainable fuel for action. I have also probably pressed ‘publish’ while overlooking a few errors. So forgive any gaffs, but I have had to adopt the mantra ‘done is better than perfect’. Repeated from the email header just to be sure to be sure.